Wednesday, April 9, 2025

UnBelizeAble!

Getting up early for today's excursions.  I booked two - a river cruise with Bruce and a snorkel afterward on my own.  I arranged the river cruise with Princess and the snorkel independently.  The river cruise was sold as a two-hour cruise starting at 7:00 am.  Given that, I felt comfortable booking a snorkel that started two hours later.  I confirmed this with the shore excursion desk on the ship, who said it would be tight, but I should be able to make it.

It turns out, 7:00 am was when we were supposed to meet on the ship to be assigned a tender group because the ship doesn't go into a port, as the ports are too shallow for the cruise liners.  It also turns out that instead of tendering out in the ship's tenders (smaller boats that don't need the depth the ship needs, usually stored along the sides of the cruise ship), there is a shuttle service.  This shuttle service is miserably slow.  They are large shuttles, so it takes significant time to fill them.  That's the case whether the fill is the first shuttle in the morning (which is controlled by the ship loading by groups) or returning from the dock (which is uncontrolled) because the shuttle won't leave until it's full.  Even though they say they leave every 30 minutes or when the next shuttle arrives, they will sit, side by side, waiting to get full before they pull away from the dock or the ship.  Therefore, we spent almost the entire two hours I had calculated for the river cruise just getting from ship to shore.  When we boarded the boat for the river cruise, our guide, Sharon, confirmed that there was no way I was going to make the snorkel.  I had to make a choice, but I had already considered that I might have to.  Bruce likes to do things that let him see animals.  I mean, yesterday in Roatan was proof of that!  But he's not much of a solo traveler.  He doesn't like to do things like this by himself, especially now that it's more difficult for him.  And I like doing things with him.  So I decided to take the river cruise with Bruce and hope to catch a last-minute snorkel when we got back.

It was a really good cruise.  We started out in the little delta where the Belize River empties into the Gulf of Mexico, where we spotted manatee.  While the Florida manatee and the Belize manatee are different subspecies, their differences are difficult to spot.  These guys don't appear to be used to people, and people aren't allowed to go out and touch them, so all we saw was those beautiful snouts break the water for fractions of a second before they submerged again.  Not something I could get a picture of.  I did catch the frigate birds that were flying around.  Looks like two juvenile and one adult, all males.

As we started down the river, Sharon gave us some history of the country, specifically the name.  There are several theories of where the name "Belize" originated.  The one she shared was that a Scottish buccaneer named Peter Wallace, who established one of the first settlements, was the namesake.  The letter W is pronounced as a B in the local Mayan dialect, so "Wallace" was pronounced "Ballace" which eventually became "Belize".  I can Belize that.  By this time, they were handing out orange juice to the kids and rum punch to the adults.  I stuck with water, but did have several "sips" of Bruce's rum punch.  It was quite good, and they were not stingy with the rum!

The first animal we saw after starting down the river was the bare-throated tiger heron.  That's a new heron for me.  It gets its name from the stripes in its plumage, looking like a striped tiger.  He was hard to see, nestled in the mangroves.  In fact, I shot in the general direction and hoped I was getting him.  All I saw was a clump that could have been just a handful of branches or prop roots, but the camera picked him up well.


Our next sighting was the elusive and rare dalmation, who came out to greet us, wagging his tail as if we were long lost friends.  His buddy stayed in the yard.


We saw lots of other critters as we traveled down the river and back, and the spotter made sure I got a good shot of about everything, checking with me to see if I was happy with what I had before leaving and even having the captain reposition the boat to make sure I got a good shot.  It pays to bring an actual camera (or two) instead of just a phone!  The river is right in front of the largest city and runs parallel and close to a main road, so the amount of animals wasn't like going through a reserve, but we saw a pretty good variety.

Morelet's crocodile, mostly underwater


Spiny tail iguana


Green iguana


Male green iguana getting his mating colors


Howler monkey.  There was a small family of them.  I liked this guy hanging upside down by his tail, pulling branches toward him and eating leaves while hanging upside down.


As we re-entered the Gulf, Sharon showed pictures of the current Belize dollar and told us that, even though they have been an independent country since 1981, they have been afraid changing the appearance of the currency would cause it to lose value.  They have just recently voted to remove the picture of Queen Elizabeth II from the dollar and replace it with a local hero.  Then, the spotter came around and gave the children a Belize quarter.

When we got back to the pier, I checked with the local tour operators, but apparently all snorkel trips are four hours because they go far out to the reef and allow people a lot of time in the water, so I had missed the last trip that could get me back to the boat for a far-too-early 3:30 pm departure.  One lady offered me a beach that is barriered off and salt water is pumped in, but it has no critters to look at.  If we anchor at 7:00 am and leave at 3:30 and it takes 3 hours to get to and from the ship, that only leaves five hours in port.  That's not enough time.  This is another reason I probably won't take another Princess cruise.  There were some other ships that appeared to stay longer than we did.  This was one of the stops I was most looking forward to, and the port where we spent the least amount of time.  That really stinks.  Bruce actually said he would consider flying down to Roatan and Belize with me to spend more time since I didn't get to have enough time in either place to snorkel and there are so many more things to do on land and on top of the water.

Even though I got us seats along the edge of the shuttle (but not an edge that had a good breeze), it stood so long and there were so many people that Bruce started overheating before we set off back to the ship.  After he showered and I got the cameras out of the backpacks, we went up to the lido deck for a snack from the buffet.  For dinner, we just ordered burgers from room service that we ate while watching a movie.

In spite of the issues with the shuttle and the limited time in port, Belize is definitely an unBelizeable place, and I must go back!




No comments:

Post a Comment