Arriving in Buenos Aires

The bus from Puerto Iguazu to Buenos Aires was very comfortable.  Seats with enough space between them that you could lay the seat down completely.  Foot rests.  Little curtains to pull across and make your own little room if you wanted.  The only complaint was that the wifi wasn't working on my bus and the charger was loose, but it was a very pleasant 20-hour ride.

Since my bus was coming in early and I wasn't able to check in to my AirBNB until afternoon, I had thought about storing my luggage and walking around Retiro.  But, the neighborhood around the bus station was a little intimidating to me.  I learned later that the bus station is right in the middle of what people here call Villas, which are the slums, one step up from homelessness.  The buidings appeared to be in significant decay with some appearing to be falling down.  Many of them didn't have four walls or full ceilings.  They don't necessarily have any electricity or running water.  The city apparently allows people to live there instead of condeming the buildings in an effort to relieve homelessness or "situacion de calle", as it's called here.  Of course, the slum lords who own the land and buildings are still allowed to charge rent.  After a long and contentious discussion on Facebook about homelessness in Buenos Aires, this is another place the US could take a few lessons.  While traveling around the city, I had noticed that I saw no homeless encampments, but that the homeless appeared to be able to pitch their pallets, mattresses, shelters and whatnot in parks or on streets at their will.  Police would walk past them without disturbing them.  I did see an officer gently nudge a sleeping person until that person raised a hand.  Then the officer went on his way and the person went back to sleep.  It appeared that the officer was just checking that the person was okay.  I have learned that some Villas are primarily tent-type cities, similar to our encampments.  Those tend to be on the outskirts of town where there are more open spaces.  Those in the "situation of the street" inside the city, seem to have found a place where they can rest relatively easily and have access to food and basic needs, such as bathrooms.  The city provides free bus passes to the homeless, and they are allowed to sleep in parks, on sidewalks, on benches, in underpasses, etc.  I have seen homeless at most of the tourist spots I have been to.  Stories were told to me about homeless who live close to restaurants who give them food and water, and dumpster diving is not illegal here.  In fact, there is even an industry of people who pick through dumpsters to gather recyclable materials.  I have seen no spike strips, no strategically placed boulders, no central arm rests installed on benches clearly to prevent people from laying on them.  When I saw the police interacting with the homeless, it was in the same way they interacted with other members of society, and some of them seemed to have a friendly relationship.  In my talks with others, I did learn that the government in Buenos Aires allows homeless people to exist and take up space so long as they do not harrass or interfere with others.  If a business or person complains about a homeless person's behavior (not their existence), the police will deal with that behavior.  But they are not "herded out" like garbage or livestock just because they have no place inside into which they can disappear from sight.  Homelessness is no small problem in Buenos Aires, and from what I can gather, the percentages rival those in Seattle and Portland, where people are screaming about the homeless crisis (and blaming the homeless for it).  However, except where there are slumlord landlords, it appears that the city is cleaner and has a more welcoming feel to it where the homeless are treated with humanity and are visible when compared to cities where they are shuffled from encampment to encampment with all or most of their scant belongings burned or otherwise disposed of on the random whim of city officials.  Just my two cents, and I'll get off my soap box now.  I took no pictures of this, as I felt that would be an intrusion into people's individual privacy.  They have so little privacy to begin with, I didn't want to take what did remain.

Anyway, because I was uncomfortable with the immediate area (Turns out the discomfort was unwarranted, but I always trust my gut.), I hung out in the bus station and had a sandwich at an inside cafe until time to find my AirBNB.  I took the worst possible transportation option since I just wanted to get there - a taxi.  Once I got outside of the immediate area of the bus station and the Villas, I was simply awestruck at the beauty of the city!  No pix of this ride, either, as I was white knuckled, hanging on!  My driver was INSANE!  But, he got me there in one piece - somehow.  He did not seem to be the normal driver in Buenos Aires.  I messaged the AirBNB host that I was here.  Crickets.  Kept messaging her and kept getting nothing back.  I was sitting on the sidewalk waiting.  Even sent her a picture asking if I was in the right place!  Still crickets.

And yes, that is all the luggage I am traveling with!  A purple carryon at max dimensions, my BiPAP, a blue waterproof bag full of meds and medical equipment such as my TENS unit, and my brown personal bag at maximum dimensions (which is actually a large water resistant camera bag).  With airlines losing so much luggage and me having connecting flights getting down here, I didn't want to check a bag and risk losing anything.  After waiting about an hour with no response, which was highly unusual for this host, I finally contacted AirBNB support.  They were giving her an hour to respond to them, and then they assured me they would cancel this one and find me someplace else if she didn't respond.  Meanwhile, I'm asking anybody coming out of or going into the building if they know her.  Finally, just before the deadline, a guy walking his dog knew how to get in touch with someone who could get in touch with her, and voila, response!  The guy walking the dog let me into the lobby, and someone else came down to settle me into the apartment.  The second balcony.  It was a rough day, but I was finally in.  I went to the little tienda across the street for something to eat, settled in, and went to sleep.

I woke the next morning with the intention of getting my time in Buenos Aires set up.  I needed to get to the closest mall to get a ticket for the ferry to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, and I needed groceries.  I went to the bus stop by the apartment, told the driver where I wanted to go, and learned the busses here do NOT take cash.  Sube card only.  As I was getting ready to get off the bus, a guy in one of the front seats, scanned his card for me and would not let me give him any pesos for it.  My faith in humanity restored, I rode to the mall and got my ferry ticket for Tuesday, the 25th.  I then started walking home, stopping in at every shop that had a Sube sign.  They could all refill a card, but none had the actual card they could sell me because of some problem with plastic in the supply chain.  Supply chain disruptions are not limited to the US.  It's a global issue right now, guys.  I didn't find a Sube card, but I did find the Botanical Gardens.  It's huge and beautiful and was designed by a guy named Carlos Thays, who designed most of the green spaces in town.  He was very talented!  Also, let me mention now that everywhere you turn here, there is statuary.  Most of it is beautiful, and the Jardin Botanico is no exception!  Being early spring, most of the flowers were in early stages, so the garden was mostly green.  I'm sure it's bursting with colors later in the year, though.  The greenhouse was closed.

It took me a little longer than planned to make it to the grocery (which was on my way) and home.  And I didn't find a Sube card.  I'm also sure you guys are going to get sick of statuary by the time I finish writing about Buenos Aires, but I'm loving it!

The Other Side of the Falls

And now, back to the falls!  Another early morning.  This time, picked up by a bus and taken to another bus.  In the second bus was an actual English-speaking guide.  And this English-speaking guide singled me out as the only non-Spanish speaker in the tour.  Just wanted to point that out.  Sebastian had an umbrella with "Sol Iguazu" on it, which was supposed to help us be able to locate him at any time.  It would have worked wonderfully if he had kept it open.  He did well early on.  Soon after we entered the park, he let us know that, though part of the lower circuit was closed, the boat to the falls was back on!  This was awesome and awful news! I hadn't planned on being able to do this, so all my underwater gear was left at the hostel.  The underwater camera.  The SCUBA suit for my mirrorless camera.  The action camera with its waterproof housing.  All. At. The. Hostel.  Fortunately, I keep that little waterproof necklace thing that you can put your phone in with me when traveling.  Just in case I need an extra pocket.  So, it was going to have to do.  He warns there are lots of stairs up and down.  I decide I'll just have to make several stops on the way back up.

We start on the green trail, which doesn't really have much other than some palm trees.  Pretty, but nothing outside of what I've seen before.  He keeps us in a group, describing different vegetation, but walking at a pretty good clip.  When we get to the upper circuit, he sends us in and disappears.  We get to the first stop and look around, and he's nowhere to be seen.  Another guide with Sol Iguazu tells one of my group members that he had to take someone to first aid and will be back, so we should just finish the circuit and meet where we entered.  So, I go at my own pace.  It is absolutely amazing!

Just as good as the Brazil side, only this time, the falls are underneath and beside me!

See the dusky swallow?  They nest behind the falls!

If you look closely, you can see the railings torn off on the island where there used to be a walkway.

And I don't understand how this tree remained standing!

It was amazing standing over such powerful water!

On the way back to the meeting point, there was even a tucan in a tree!

Several of them had been flying by, but they were too fast for me to get a decent picture. I guess I need to work on that whole capturing birds thing!

The lower circuit is probably a good time when it's completely open.  But, everything going out to view the Devil's Throat was closed, as the walkways had been destroyed.  It was a bust.  There were basically two waterfalls to see and the entry and exit was STEEP.  It was so steep, I had to stop a few times to be able to breathe.  By the time I  got to the top, Sebastian had reappeared, and he was trying to talk me out of doing the boat ride because of the steps.  I told him I would have plenty of time to recover and would be wet and cooled off by the time I needed to walk up those steps, and he was not going to stop me from taking that boat ride!  So, he got me my ticket and put me on the jungle buggy to the boat dock.  When we got there and I got off the buggy, guess who was in the line, soaking wet, waiting to get on the jungle buggy to go back to the entry point!  Tina and her brother and sister!  They assured me it was an amazing ride!

So, down the stairs I went.  It was mostly a gentle slope with steps cut into the hill.  About 3/4 of the way down, after picking up my waterproof bag, it turned into a regular stairwell.  As I got closer to the boat dock, there were life jackets on the handrail.  As I walked past a guy, he put the life jacket over my head and helped me get my arms through it.  When I got on the boat dock, just before getting on the boat, another guy fastened all the buckles on my life jacket, and then another guy tightened all straps and checked that it was on right.  At that point, I boarded the boat, dropped my waterproof bag that I carry with me (with my camera and stuff) in the waterproof bag they gave me, turned the top over a couple of times, and bucked it closed.  My phone was already in its waterproof lanyard, and my glasses were well attached to my head.  I was ready to go.  Before taking off, they moved some people around to balance the boat and put me on the other side.  They made some people take off their glasses, and nobody was able to wear a hat.  The guy who moved me was right, it was the better side of the boat!  I don't know how many of you have actually tried to use your phones in those waterproof lanyards, especially in full sun and with water splashing around, but I couldn't see what I was doing.  I just put my finger where I thought it should go and hoped I was recording something!  I did, somehow, manage to get a couple of good clips.  After the second pass through the waterfall, though, I somehow managed to flip the camera, and all of the other clips were of me, chewing my tongue while trying to work the camera or screaming and spitting out falls water, laughing, and just having a wonderful time!  They are not a pretty sight!  Here is the best one.  It's the first one and shows the falls that we went past before getting to the ones we went into.  It's not the closest we got, but it gives a good idea of what we had.  That water was ICE COLD, let me tell you.  But that ice cold water was sooooo refreshing after how hot the day had been!

We made multiple passes into both of those wide waterfall sections! Mind blown! Absolutely one of the high points of my life! If you ever go to Iguazu Falls, you HAVE to do the boat ride! This one was called La Gran Aventura and is on the Argentina side. I didn't ride the boat on the Brazil side, but I think they did the same things from what I could see.

When we got back to the docks, we got off the boat, and someone was there to unbuckle our life jackets.  On the stairs, the guy who put the life jacket on us, also took it off.   About halfway up the staircase part of the steps, there was a group of guys selling videos of our boat.  They wanted around 3000 pesos for it, so based on my blue dollar exchange, around $11.  I had no clue if I ever even turned my video on, so I stopped by there, filled out the form, caught my breath, and bought a copy.  It's nice.  If anybody wants to see it, I'm happy to show it.  It's much longer and shows everybody on the boat and all the scenery through most if not all of the passes through the falls.  I like mine better, though.  Maybe because it's mine, and I can still feel the water splashing me in the face and drenching my entire body!  Anyway, I headed on up the steps to the place where I gave back the waterproof bag.  The lady that was taking them pulled her stool out and instructed me to sit.  I told her I had to get back.  She told me I could either sit on her stool or sit "there" and pointed to the first aid tent.  I sat on her stool.  She reminded me to take deep breaths, in through the nose and out through the mouth, raising my arms above my head with inspiration, and eventually, my breathing was back to normal.  A couple more small rest stops on the way to the top, and I was back on the jungle buggy on my way back to the meeting point.  I was the last of our group to return.  Sebastian was nowhere to be seen.  He had apparently left earlier and left those of us who went on the boat with his buddy from Sol Iguazu.  This guy was irritated that I took so long to get back because many of the people on his bus were going back to Brazil, and he had to wait to let my group off at a bus on the way.  Oh well.  Life's rough and then you have to wait for the straggler.  I wouldn't change a thing, given all the circumstances.  If I had it to do over without the need for a guide but all other limitations, I would do the boat first and may or may not bother with the lower circuit and its steep climb.  If the full lower circuit was opened, it probably would have been worth that climb, but with only the opened parts, it was not.  The upper circuit was amazing, but the partial lower circuit was underimpressive after seeing the Brazil side and the upper circuit.

If you have the opportunity to go to Iguazu Falls and you start asking which side to see (like many people are doing on a couple of my Facebook groups), slap yourself and see both!  They are very different and both are amazing!

I picked up a choripan, fries, a salad, and soda from the gift shop before leaving the park because I was just too exhausted to worry about getting dinner.  Thankfully, I had booked the hostel for the full next day, so I didn't need to worry about check-out time, and my bus to Buenos Aires wasn't until afternoon.  So, I slept in, leisurely packed my clothes, and ordered a taxi to take me to Tourismo Dick and then Pizza Color (almost right next to the bus terminal) so I could get pizza before catching my bus to Buenos Aires.  I ate half of it for lunch and had the other half for dinner on the bus.  I'm glad Ricardo (from Tetris Hostel in Foz do Iguacu) warned me that I needed to get all the food and drinks I wanted for the bus ride because there wouldn't be an opportunity during the trip!

Amethyst, Quartz, Geodes, and Jesuits

 Bright and early the next morning, I took an Uber to the border between Brazil and Argentina.  It was a very easy crossing.  I got out of my Uber, stamped out of Brazil - again (even though I never processed out of Paraguay or back into Brazil) and got into a taxi.  The taxi took me to the Argentina border.  The immigration official asked me if I was coming back to Brazil or staying in Argentina, and I told her I was staying in Argentina and going on down to Buenos Aires and Ushuaia after a few days.  She said fine, processed my passport AND DIDN'T GIVE ME A STAMP!  Okay.  Two countries out of three that didn't give me a stamp!  I got the big, 100-page passport so I could collect stamps!  I'm really not liking this trend.  The taxi driver took me all the way to my hostel - which was apparently further from the center than I thought.  I got settled in before going back to town so I could exchange money.

Argentina has a black market for currency.  This is in part because of the currency controls the government tries to enforce and in part because of the runaway, 80+% inflation.  But trading currency on the black market (called the blue dollar) gives you about twice the spending power for your buck.  So, you avoid banks and official money changing facilities.  The place to go in Puerto Iguazu is Tourismo Dick.  I kid you not!  There are two major tourist bureaus in Puerto Iguazu, Argentina;  Tourismo Dick and Sol Iguazu.  They are across the street from each other.  Tourismo Dick also has a blue dollar money exchange in the office.   I went in, exchanged dollars for Argentinian pesos (at 270 to 1 as opposed to about 140 to 1) and asked about a tour to the mines in Wanda.  The lady at the tourism desk told me she didn't have any spaces left for the mines the next day, so I went across the street to Sol Iguazu, who hooked me right up, English-speaking guide and all.  Because my hostel was so far from town and away from the bus line, I asked about transportation to the falls for the following day, too.  They said that for now, the falls are requiring a guide for all visitors.  They suggested I just order the whole package from them, because they could provide me with transportation and let me get my guide from the park, but the park charges more.  Their price was reasonable, so I went ahead and got both days taken care of right then and there.

Then came the hike up the hill to the bus terminal because I wanted to take the bus to Buenos Aires instead of flying.  So, I arranged my bus, had a wonderful dish of a fish from the Parana River over a bed of squash topped with a cherry tomato reduction at a place called Pizza Color, and headed back to my hostel, stopping along the way for snacks to eat in my room.

The next bright and early morning, I met Ruan outside my hostel in a van.  I was the first pickup for the mines and ruins.  He didn't speak any English.  We picked up two more families.  One was parents and their child, about 9.  The other was a group of three siblings, two adult and one in high school. One of the siblings spoke exceptionally good English, and we struck up a friendship.  I'm trying to set up an Instagram account so I can find her and connect with her beyond that one day.  But, like many younger people, she doesn't use Facebook, preferring Instagram.

Anyway, the mines were awesome.  Even before entering the mines, themselves, you could see deposits of amethyst and quartz just laying on the ground!

Once we actually entered the mines, the deposits were even more frequent!  Our guide talked about how the area was initially settled by Polish immigrants before the mines were established, and the area has a significant slavic influence.  He also described the minerals that go into making the amethyst and quartz along with many of the other other precious stones that are mined elsewhere.  He also described grading the stones, including the color and clarity sought.  I understood a surprising amount of what he said, and was even able to ask questions and make relevant comments.  Having Tina around, able and willing to correct my understanding or clarify my statements made me a lot more confident!  He also pointed out some of the natural formations that resembled other things, like this llama!

That last one is a geode.  When we left the mine, we went by the "factory", where they process the stones, sometimes combinding them with other stones or natural items to make knick knacks for tourists.  After that, into the gift shop, where the sales ladies were definitely skilled at the hard sell and photos were not allowed.  Thankfully, my ear holes have long grown over and I have no space in my suitcase for souveniers!

Then, we headed further south, to San Ignacio.  After a good lunch, in which Tina and her brother and sister made a list of foods I need to try in Argentina, and we talked a lot about the similarities and differences between the two countries, we toured the ruins of the Jesuit mission that was set up by the Jesuit priests.  The guide discussed in intricate detail the way the community was set up, leaving no detail unconsidered.  This included not just the architecture, but the structure of the community and education of the children.  Much of this is still demonstrated in the Jesuit-based colleges and high schools in the US, such as Loyola and Xavier Universities.  The site is very well preserved and definitely worth a trip to visit.

On the ride back to Puerto Iguazu, we stopped to learn about yerba mate production.  I tried the tea, which is a mild flavor, and I may add it to my rotation of teas when I get home.  Afterward in the van, a cup of actual mate was prepared and passed around.  It is a social drink.  It is the type of thing that gets passed around between friends, but unlike in some cultures, where declining is considered an insult, it's the offer that indicates friendship.  I was offered, and the offer made me feel very good.  Unfortunately, the taste was extremely bitter, and the face I made garnered a chuckle from everybody in the van!  Later, after it mellowed, I tried it again, and it was much better.  By the end of the ride, I felt confident contribuing to the conversation about places to eat dinner in town wihout the need for translation!

At the end of the evening, when dropping people off (I was the last to go!), Tina and I expressed that we want to keep in touch.  We had no signal the entire trip, so on my notes page in my phone where they made the list of foods I need to try, she wrote down her instagram handle, and I am now in the process of trying to figure out how to set up a personal instagram account so I can connect with her.  I may have to reach out for help, so Chrissy, be prepared!  I may need some long-distance tech support!

Three Borders and Great Steak!

 After I left the falls, the rain cleared up.  Actually, when I returned to my hostel, Ricardo said it hadn't rained at all in town.  Anyway, I rested a bit and decided to go see the Tres Fronteros monument.  The mouth of the Iguazu River, where it dumps into the Parana River creates the border to the three countries, Paraguay, across the Parana River, and Brazil and Argentina on either side of the Iguazu River.  Each country has their own monument to the "Tres Fronteras".  I was in Brazil, so I went to the one on the Brazil border.       

They have a program in the evenings where they give the history and some cultural background of the three countries through interpretive dance.  They have elaborate costumes and talented performers.

You can see each of the monuments from each country.  Brazil and Argentina are the two countries that have programs.  Paraguay only has the monument.  The monuments in Argentina and Brazil are obelisks in a park with programs and food and drink service, souvenir stands, etc. The Paraguayan monument doesn't have a park, but it does have a few more things than the obelisk.

The river was beautiful under such an interesting sky.

After a good night's rest, back at the hostel, I decided to spend my last day in Foz do Iguacu walking around the town, including making my trek to Paraguay.  There is absolutely nothing in Paraguay except shopping.  I brought everything I need, and even if I needed something, I have no space in my luggage for it!  All I wanted was the stamp in my passport.  So I caught the bus from my hostel to the main bus terminal and located the bus to the Friendship Bridge, connecting Brazil with Paraguay.  Google Maps doesn't support public transportation in Foz do Iguacu, so guess who missed her stop!!  When I realized I had missed my stop, I got off at the next one.  A parts house let me use their wifi so I could call an Uber back to the bridge.  I got to the bridge, crossed the street, and headed across.  I stopped at immigration and stamped out of Brazil, and headed across the bridge.  Everybody else just walked across.  Immigration didn't care.  I got to the other side of the bridge and went to the immigration office and handed over my passport. She scanned my passport and handed it back.  No stamp.  I asked for the stamp, and she said they don't stamp anymore.  So no passport stamp for me, even after walking all the way across!  I have pictures, though, so there is evidence I was in Paraguay!

Coming back across the bridge, I had to pass through Brazilian customs.  The woman thought I was crazy to have walked across the bridge and back without purchasing anything!

After that trip, I was hungry, so I took the bus back to the terminal.  Ricardo had recommended a churascarria that he thought was one of the best in the area.  I told him I wanted to compare the meat in the two countries to see which was better.  So, I went to the place he said was the best, Bufalo Branco.  It was absolutely delicious!  Texas de Brazil and Fogo de Chao are good, but they don't hold a candle to the real deal!  There are more selections that go around.  They even had grilled onions and chicken hearts that made the rounds!  And the desert bar was included!

 

After such a good meal, I walked a little bit to the bus stop and road back to the hostel, where I repacked my bags so I could get up bright and early to cross the border from Brazil to Argentina.

The Falls Were Definitely Falling!

So, it's a week since I left home for my epic trip around South America, and I have been going virtually nonstop.  I finally decided I needed to take a break, so I downloaded the pictures from the camera, and I hope I can remember everything that has happened in the last 7-ish days!

My trip from Seattle, WA, USA, to Foz do Iguacu, Parana, Brazil, was uneventful, though long.  Flights were all delayed.  Seems they kept forgetting to clean the bathrooms!  Seriously, that's what they said the problem was, both leaving Seattle and leaving Houston!  The flight from Sao Paolo to Foz do Iguacu was delayed because of me.  I always wondered what it would feel like to have them hold a plane for you.  Now I know.  It's a little embarassing to be the last one on the plane while everybody has been sitting waiting for you.  But, any discomfort is short lived.

When I got to Foz do Iguazu (which means Mouth of the Iguacu, named for the Iguacu River), it was raining.  So, I took a taxi to my hostel, which wasn't at its address.  The taxi had GPS on and I had Google Maps going, and we were at the given address, but there was no hostel there.  So, I asked the driver if he knew were Hostel Tetris was, and he took me there.  I hadn't planned to stay at Tetris because this hostel has mostly all dorm beds, and I try to avoid dorm beds.  I'm old.  I snore.  I fart in my sleep.  I hate pajamas and my nightgown rides up in my sleep.  It's really best for all involved if I have a private room.  Really.  But, I needed someplace out of the rain to sort this out, and the owner of Hostel Tetris is involved in my trip to Antarctica.  I was planning to stop in and have a drink with him at some point anyway, might as well make it right away.  Turns out, he had a triple room available for just the time I needed and he let me have it!  Life saving!  Turns out, I got an email from the initial hostel during my flight from Sao Paolo giving me a different address, which was significantly off the main drag, especially for someone relying on public transport with some mobility issues.  Some back and forth arguing, including reminding her that I would just charge it back to my credit card and she could pay not only the refund amount, but also the chargeback fee from the card, and I was given a full refund.

Turns out, that night, Ricardo at Hostel Tetris was hosing a local university having a lecture about medical marijuana, skin cancer, biodiversity in Antarctica, and something else.  I'm old and was tired.  I tried to stay up for it.  I failed miserably.  But, judging from the number of people there and the enthusiastic-sounding responses, the lecture was a huge success.  I have since been told that this is not uncommon in the US, either (bar lectures), but it's the first time I had ever heard of it!  I thought it was amazing!

I slept like a rock right next door.

I woke up bright and early the next morning, repacked my camera bag, and headed for the falls.  It's a good thing Ricardo had told me what bus to take and where to catch it.  Google Maps doesn't work with the public transportation in Foz do Iguacu!  But it was easy enough to get to the park.  All the information I had been given was the you had to pay in cash.  Cards were not accepted.  Exactly the opposite.  You had to pay by card.  Cash was not accepted!  Easy enough.  I didn't take out a much extra cash in Reals when I landed, so I should be able to spend most of it even without spending this entry ticket.  I got my entry ticket and hopped on the bus back into the falls area.  You have the option of getting off on the "falls trail" and see the complete panorama unfold or you can just ride to the end of the line and see the Devil's Throat.  Of course, I chose the trail.  I mean, really.  Miss the unfolding?  I got off the bus and headed along the trail.  I turned a corner, and this is the view that hit me!

All of that haze in there is water splashing up! That's how much force was falling! Like I said, there had been some rain. Apparently, these falls are usually clear. This view was so awe inspiring that I almost missed the little coati scurrying along the edge of the mirador!

And the guy at the ticket booth said the animals would mostly be out of sight because of the rain! Hah! This little guy ain't afraid of no rain!  Of course, it was between showers.  As we moved along the trail, more and more of the falls came into view!

Look at that little tree hanging on with all that water bearing all that force down on it!  At this point, there was a little snack bar and a set of restrooms, and it was raining pretty hard, so most of us went under shelter.  So did another little coati!  In fact, this little guy was just waiting for somebody to have food and not be paying any attention to him.  He knew it was going to happen!

With many people staying under the shelter and the excitement over (not to mention the little girl crying who lost her sandwich!), I headed back out to see the rest of the falls unfold!

As I got to the walkway out on the Devil's Tongue, they closed it.  I mean, did I mention there had been a little rain?  The falls were carrying 10 times their normal capacity, and from what I understood, there had only been one time before when they carried more.  There was significant flooding upriver, and all that force was carrying all that water and mud down river to the falls.  Watching the water splash over the walkway, I'm not sure I would want to be on that walkway, pelted by that force!

And right behind the walkway was - the Devil's Throat!  I picture could not be taken because the splash was so fierce that it obliterated the fall.

All the way back to my hostel, I continued to marvel at these falls, and I had only seen one side!  I went to the Tres Fronteras later that same night, but I'm getting tired and have another day of exploring in front of me tomorrow.  So, I'll write about the rest of my time in Foz do Iguacu sometime in the future!