Wednesday, November 20, 2024

Santa Cruz to Isabela

I got up and out early.  In fact, so early the guy selling water and banana bread (and other stuff too, in his panaderia) wasn't open by the time I went to the malecon.  But the guy with the little kiosk on the malecon was open and he sold me a bottle of water and a balogna sandwich.  I forgot I'm not a huge fan of mortedelo and prefer mortedelo extra, but it was edible and a decent breakfast with the big sandwich bread it was on.  I managed to get signed in on the Sigiloza (the name of my ferry) and boarded via water taxi.  I was in the first group to board the Sigiloza.  Me and the girl sitting by me in the back row by the windows thought we had it made – the whole back row to ourselves.  But not to be.  More people came in.  The boat was full with a couple of people taking turns standing, and all seats on top full.  No way I could have made it on the top – through a little window and climb the ladder from a tiny little ledge.  Just getting to the ladder would have been way outside my comfort zone with my balance problems!

There were some solo folks like me on the boat and a few locals and couples, but most of them were a group of seniors from Great Britain or a film crew from Germany who were filming a documentary on what it is like to live in the Galapagos Islands.  They were a pretty cool group.  So were the Brits. 


One of the lighthouses on Santa Cruz.  The one at the entrance of Isabela looked the same.

When we got on the water taxi heading into Isabela, there was a girl from New Zealand and her boyfriend.  (She's on the far right.)  She was wearing sea sickness glasses.  Well, I guess motion sickness glasses.  She says she even drives in them if she's going a long distance.  Says they work great.  They looked adorable.  The water in them apparently brings the horizon right up to you when things are moving, and there are circles on all sides.

I got to Isabela and paid my $10 entry fee, then took out my camera and got some shots of the welcoming crew of sea lions, the sleepy baby on the path, the iguana on the path, and a pelican on the bay beside.  



When I got to the parking lot, I grabbed a taxi for a buck and headed to my hostel.  I was hoping to just drop my bags, but I was able to check right in.  Turns out, check out and check in are really early on this island!  Lots of rules here in the hostel, but they're understandable and meant to take care of particular problems.  No using the towels to wash things - just dry your body.  Too many towels get stained by wiping shoes, washing makeup, etc.  I always bring a face cloth because many hostels and even some hotels don't provide them outside the US, so no concerns there.   No suitcases on the bed.  This prevents the spread of bed bugs, which they don't have and don't plan to!  Wipe your feet on entry.  No eating in the room.  Crumbs attract ants and other bugs.  Conserve water and electricity.  Those are self explanatory.  I hope that was all.  Without thinking, I immediately broke one.  I put my backpack on my bed just out of habit.  When I realized what I had done, I pulled it off quickly.  I don't think I'm carrying bed bugs, but sometimes you don't know until it's too late.

I walked around town and found the meeting place for my tours from this island and confirmed the times and that they are both dry landings.  Alethea had already told me that, but I double checked.  The town is really cute.  Nothing paved.  Sidewalks are raised off the street, so lots of ups and downs if you walk on the sidewalks.  (I tended to walk in the street because of that.)  In most parts of town, the sidewalks are left bare with tables and businesses back away from the street.

This is the island's letters in front of the town square, facing a group of restaurants behind me.


Lots of little art pieces like this scattered around


Bicycles are a very popular means of transportation.  You can see how far back from the street the restaurant seating starts by looking at the left.

On the way back to my hostel, I took the direction past the flamingo lake.  There weren't so many birds in it this afternoon.  There's probably more at a secluded cove in a different part of the island, but I didn't want to walk that far.  This is a kind of big island.  The biggest one in the archipelago.  

There is a fence around the lake to protect it from any larger predators.  Dogs are supposed to be leashed and kept inside, since they are an invasive species here, but sometimes they do get out.  Hence the fence around the lake.  It also keeps kids from chasing any of the animals in the lake, etc.  There is a small boardwalk so you can enjoy the birds without disturbing them.  They are much brighter than other flamingos I've seen except those in zoos that are specifically fed for color.  Flamingos get their pink color from the beta-carotene in brine shrimp and some algaes.  They are brighter or lighter based on the amount of beta carotene they ingest.



Most of my duck pictures are headless because almost every time my shutter clicked, the ducks put their heads down to feed!  This is a white-cheeked pintail duck.  There were about as many ducks as flamingos in the lake.


This little statuary grouping sits in the middle of the intersection by the lagoon.  You can see the fence behind it.  When my taxi came through, there was a guy chipping the blue paint on the tops of the mosaic parts on most of the post.

After my walk, I went back to my room and took a nap.  With the window being one-way glass (I can see out, but you have to get right up against it to see in), the hammock was a great place for that nap.

I woke for a late lunch time and got a huge meal with a lentle soup, rice, pork chop, fries, salad, and desert.  I was stuffed and I later went to the Bar de Beto, which is just around the corner on the beach and is considered part of my hostel.  I could have rung for Beto to hang me a hammock, but I didn't want to bother him or his wife, Edith just for that, so I just sat at the table and watched the birds and kids playing on the beach.  After falling asleep at the table, I decided to take a walk.  It is a lovely beach!  


When I was coming back, a huge iguana was just walking into the bar.  I said, “Hola”, and he stopped long enough for me to catch up and take some shots.  Their tails are so heavy, they make drag paths in the sand.

I'm not much of a nightlife person these days, so as the bar opened, I bought a soda pop and went back to my room.  The internet has been good in the room and almost all of the pictures I had taken on Santa Cruz had uploaded to the cloud during the day while I was out.  So, I watched a movie had had on my computer and went to bed early.  

The hostel is great.  It is Hostel Galapagos by Bar de Beto.  Nice hot water, large room, shared kitchen with a water dispenser for refilling your water bottle.  Unlike on Santa Cruz, they discourage single use plastics, and the hostels and tour offices give free water bottle refills for their customers.  There's also a rooftop terrace, but I never checked it out because I didn't want to walk up all those stairs for another view of the flamingo lake.  

Tomorrow includes a search for the Galapagos penguin!

Saturday, November 16, 2024

Fabulous Snorkeling at Pinzon

I got up this morning and left earlier than I needed.  I decided to take some time to get some shots of the malecon.  Little did I know, it was a very small malecon.  I thought it was bigger.  But, I also confirmed where I need to go for the ferry in the morning and that they start at 6 am.  I saw some sea lions having some fun together.  Maybe a mating routine or maybe just playing.  Regardless, it was fun to watch, but I didn't get any video.  

Santa Cruz Island's letters


Thsi guy was posing on the pier.


Textured mural on a tour office building off the malecon


Iguana statue in the traffic circle off the malecon


Blue-footed boobie statue on the malecon


Sally Lightfoot crabs on the sea wall

When the tour guy came by, he let me know I was going on a different boat today, which is fine.  I liked the other boat, but I'm wearing the same rash guard again today and now I don't need to worry if anybody is judging me!  Only me and a guy from Poland were at the meeting point.  But we were waiting for some others, so we were taken to a closer fancy hotel to wait.  I met the girl from Brazil and a couple from New Zealand, as well as our tour guide for the day, Susanna (Suzie).  When they got the word that the others were in, we headed to the pier.  This time, the boat came up to the pier and we didn't have to take a water taxi.  There were 10 of us – the ones I already said, a couple from Israel, two girls from Switzerland (not together), and a guy from China.  Everybody spoke either English or Spanish (or some combination of words that could get by) except the guy from China.  

Our first stop was Pinzon Island.  They had us put on wetsuits because everybody had been saying the water was cold.  I wasn't prepared for that.  I left mine in the room because I didn't think I needed it until San Cristobal.  But, the Ozempic has been my friend and I was able to fit into a men's XL.  It was just a little too long, but not enough to cause any problems.  Not like the wetsuit I had to use for swimming with the manatee!  But I digress.

Since everybody was good at snorkeling and there were specific places we weren't supposed to go (for our own safety around the sharks), I decided to take advantage of the life raft and let Suzie tow me.  When I'm towed, I kick and propel myself, so it's more a physical guiding instead of a tow. That way I didn't have to worry if the current got me and pulled me out somewhere I wasn't supposed to be and couldn't get back and I didn't have to worry about where I was in relation to everybody else and could just enjoy the view!

And what a view it was!  We saw lots of fish, sea lions, green sea turtles, an eagle ray, and white tipped reef sharks!  The sea lions didn't want to play with us today like yesterday, but the alpha male was a happy alpha male.  Suzie said sometimes he chases the snorkelers away.  They did play among themselves close to us.  I do need to get a smaller outex because it interferes with the lens retracting, but I think I got some good shots. 



Suzie tried to take some pictures of people by one of the turtles (the second).  The photo she took of me didn't turn out so great because I was having trouble not getting on him with the current pushing me.  But, I'm happy with it anyway! 

We got two different turtles.  The first turtle was the first time Suzie had to move the Chinese guy away from the animals because he was disturbing it.


This is the Chinese guy's camera that went down almost to the turtle's head caused it to change course.




Lots of different fish, and as long as the Chinese guy wasn't close, the water was generally clear.

Spiny sea urchin


Maybe a wrasse of some type


Blue-barred parrotfish.  There were schools of these guys.


Blue-barred parrotfish terminal male


Terminal male blue-barred parrotfish


Probably some type of wrasse


Some type of sponge


Rainbow wrasse

We came across a spotted eagle ray.  I wish I had gotten the right angle for its little beak, but since I can't swim under water, there wasn't much of a chance.


And I got a tiny, short-lived glance at an adorable trigger fish!  I love how the dorsal and pectoral fins move opposite each other


And the king angelfish

The white-tipped reef sharks were amazing.  We were told to just swim over them and to be careful about aggitating them.  They have never attacked, but they do have big, meat-eater teeth instead of the crushing shellfish teeth of the nurse shark, so they can attack if provoked.  Like nurse sharks, they are not ram ventillators, so they can rest on the bottom.


Suzie had to move the Chinese guy away from the sharks because he kept standing in the sand and churning up the water where no one could see and seemed to be starting to irritate the sharks.  She had to bring him in to her several times.  She was afraid she made him mad, but several of us told her not to worry about it.  He should know better than to stand in a snorkeling situation, and the language barrier wasn't an excuse.

On the way back to the boat, we swam past the sea lions.  The alpha male just yelled at us, but he didn't move or make any effort to really intimidate us.  We also swam by some other fish and another turtle.

Blue spotted cornetfish


Another green sea turtle.  This is the one that Suzie photographed us with, so I didn't take many photos myself.  I like the way the sergeant majors seemed to be hanging out around this turtle.


We came back in and had a snack – watermelon and crackers and some hot tea – and headed for the rock without a name.  When we got there, the current was high and there were some birds feeding on some top minnows.  So we threw out a line and trolled for a while.  We were unsuccessful this time, too.  


So we headed to a little secluded beach on the far side of Santa Cruz island.  The snorkeling there was dissappointing because the water was very churned and you could hardly see anything.  There were some crabs on the rocks and some marine iguanas on the sand.  There were also some sea lions resting under the mangrove trees.  Some people went out to snorkel some more and some of us just hung out on the beach.  I didn't have my glasses and the camera had to keep its condom on because we swam to and from the boat, so I hung out on the beach for a little while, then swam back to the boat.  I took a few pix, but I was starting to have a some condensation on the front lens.  You can see it in this shot.


When everybody got back to the boat, we had lunch.  Tuna and shrimp ceviche.  I opted for the alternate, which was pasta with mushroom gravy and rice.  There was also iced tea with lots of sugar and lots of ice.  I had some really nice conversation with multiple folks, then we headed back to Puerto Ayora.  Again, there was a sea lion resting on the bench and a bunch of iguanas sunning themselves on the pier.  There was also a pelican on the other side.  




I went to the grocery store and picked up some peanuts to get some protein for today and headed back to my room.  I need to get everything packed up and ready to go to the pier early in the morning for my transfer to Isabella.